The set off is exceptionally early in the morning to go across Thorung La Pass at 5416m. The trail becomes steep instantly after leaving Phedi but easy to follow. 4-6 hours ascent leads to the apex of the Pass, which is replete with prayer flags, a chorten and stone cairn built by travellers. The views from the trail and from the pass are majestic. Further along, the trail descends steeply proceeding towards Chabarbu. From here on, the trail crosses meadows, drops into a deep ravine, climbs out and follows a wide trail into Muktinath, a pilgrimage site held in great reverence by both the Hindus and Buddhists.

Late morning start from Muktinath to let you get some much deserved rest after an arduous previous day and to allow for time to visit Muktinath temple complex, one of the most revered pilgrimage sites in Nepal for Buddhists and Hindus alike. Refreshed and spiritually invigorated, you descend out of Ranipauwa to Jharkot (3550m) through farmlands and clusters of poplar trees. Beyond Jharkot, the trail descends gradually to Khingar (3200m). Shortly, further ahead of Khingar, you get your first glimpse of the Kali Gandaki River as it is met by the Jhong Khola. As you continue on the trail, the path forks: the left hand trail leads to Eklaibhatti and the one on the right leads to Kagbeni - a green oasis in the middle of a desert, an erstwhile junction on the ancient Trans-Himalayan trade route and the gateway to the restricted region of Upper Mustang.

Back route from Kagbeni village leads you into the restricted zone of Upper Mustang. The trail heads due North and we reach Tangbe, a pleasant village of white-washed houses and narrow alleys, set in a patchwork of fields of buckwheat, barley and apple orchards.
We reach Chhuksang village in the crook of the confluence of the Narshing River and the Kali Gandaki and we continue on to Chele. The transformation from ethnic Manangi to Tibetan (Mustangi) culture is well expressed in the architecture.

The trail from Chele climbs to a spur and a view down to the village of Ghyakar, it continues over the Chele La (3,630m) then down to the ‘oasis’ of Samar. High above the river and set amongst apricots and apples and a bright yellow mustard crop Samar is known for a supply of sturdy pack-ponies. From here we can still see the Annapurnas and Nilgiri in the South. The trail continues to Bhena before crossing the pass known as Yamdo La (4,010m). There is then a descent before the short climb to Shyangmochen, another classic Mustang village. Another short climb to Shyangmochen La (3,850m) and we enter yet another remarkable valley.

One of highest points of our expedition is the Nyi La (4,020m), which we reach today, has 360 degree panoramic views, away to the Tibetan plateau and South to the Annapurnas. Off the pass now, we reach Ghemi, a large settlement distinguished by scores of white-washed houses and surrounded by cultivated, walled fields.

One of today’s feature is the broad alluvial plain but there is also now a remarkable sight before us which claims the longest prayer wall in Nepal; more than 400m long and about 2.5 m tall. The trail climbs to traverse the Choya La pass (3,870m) and from here, the descent brings us to the fields and village of Charang.

It is not actually the valley of the Kali Gandaki that we have followed – or will follow today – but a series of tributary valleys both sharing our path and crossing it. These account for the several passes that we cross but means we have avoided the geological chaos of all the torrential tributaries as they blunder into the Kali Gandaki. Around us now is barren yet stunning landscape, intense and colourful none-the-less; its desert-like features belie its simple riches. A short descent from Lo, then on upwards onto a plateau arriving at the walled city of Lo Manthang.

There are around 150 houses clustered in close proximity in this ‘city’ settlement. The doors of most houses open onto a two storey central courtyard with ground level generally used as storage space. A wooden staircase leads to the upper storey, which characteristically has a veranda overlooking the courtyard with doors leading off to living rooms and kitchen. The all important sunshine means most life is out-of-doors, so opportunities to glimpse typical domestic scenes.
There are four Buddhist gompas within the walls: Jampa Lhakang, Thubchen , Chodey and Choprang; each one of different interest and each one dimly lit by row upon row of butter lamps.
An incongruous four-storey building, the king’s palace, is in the centre. Though only ceremonial, the king is still well-respected and consulted on many issues.
A day is set aside around this most atmospheric place and for savouring the breathtaking mountain views.

To date the sun has always been at our back but from today it will travel across our horizon. We may opt for a different, more westerly, route on the return journey via the Marang La (4,230m) and using it to include a visit to the monastery at Lo Gekar. Surrounded by grassy pastures the gompa is decorated with paintings and statues and numerous large prayer wheels. It’s a lively place, busy with monks and pilgrims.
Next is the Mui La, and alpine meadows give way to fluted red and purple cliffs leading us to Dhakmar.

Chele
(O/nt Altitude 3,050m/6 hrs approx.),

Kagbeni
(O/nt Altitude 2800m/4hrs approx.) and

Jomsom
(O/nt Altitude 2760m/3hrs approx.)
This is familiar territory, retracing our route to Jomsom. Although to make it more interesting for you- we turn off the now familiar trail to take a new route from Jhaite, passing via Ghemi, to the village of Ghiling (3570m). We emerge on to the mainstream trail the following day at Syangboche, making our two night stops at Chele and Kagbeni, reaching Jomson on our 13th day.

A morning flight back to Pokhara, where we are soon back at our Base Camp.
End of Expedition. Final celebratory dinner in the evening. (D)