On the opposite shoreline is a Monastery with a statue of Thönpa Chenrab, the founder of the Bonpo religion who reportedly lived thousands of years ago.

Phoksundo Lake is part of the Shey Phoksundo National Park (established in 1984), Nepal’s largest National Park with an area of 3,555 km². Its aim is to conserve the Trans-Himalayan ecosystem and Tibetan-type flora and fauna. In 1998, an area of 1,349 km² surrounding the park was declared a buffer zone; this area is jointly managed by park rangers and local communities.

From the school it’s approximately 90 minutes walk to Tokyu (4,209 m), said to be the highest permanent settlement in the world. The village is crowned by a gompa which has a beautiful statue of Maitreya, the Future Buddha. Another gradual climb of around 90 minutes over grassy land leads to Numala Base Camp. Located in the middle of nowhere, but close to the river, it has a small house suitable for use as a kitchen.

Day 12: To Chhepka
(2,838m/7hrs approx.) via Rechi (2,940m) The trek to Rechi is almost entirely through beautiful pine forest, with birch and other broad leaved trees included in the mix. Leaving Ringmo, the path is rather flat at first, but then climbs steeply. Soon the river appears far below you. From on high there’s a last glimpse of Phoksundo Lake. Soon after a ridge top is Nepal’s highest waterfall with its spectacular drop of 167 meters - the Suligad Waterfall (also called Phoksundo Waterfall). And then the long descent starts.

Approximately one hour further on is an Amchi Hospital. An amchi is a doctor/lama who is educated in traditional Tibetan medicine, a practice dating back thousands of years and using techniques such as pulse and urine analysis. Treatments combine the use of herbs and minerals, together with physical therapies such as a Tibetan form of acupuncture. Most local people prefer to visit an amchi rather than a conventional doctor when they are ill. Any monetary donation is warmly welcomed.

It’s another 1½ hours to the village of Rechi. The trail flattens slightly so walking is easier. The river flows rapidly past and is a beautiful emerald green in places. On the other bank the rocky slope is steep and dotted with pines. Local people with their mules and jhopas (a cross between yak/cow) loaded with items to trade frequent the trail. Rechi consists of just a couple of houses and a primary school.

The way to Chhepka follows the river course. The descent is marked by an increase in temperature and also by a change in vegetation. Bamboo and large walnut trees grow here and our overnight village of Chhepka is set amongst fields of barley.

Day 13: To Juphal
(2,475m/6hrs approx.) Today’s trek is mostly downhill with some short climbs interspersed. The first section is again through forest, with the sound of the river ever present.

After the village of Shyanta the trail opens out into a dry landscape, dominated by Kang Tokal (6,294m).

After the villages of Raktang (2,421m) and Kageni (2,413m) is the check post for the Shey Phoksundo National Park (SPNP), where permits are again checked. A 99m long suspension bridge spans the river and on the opposite bank one takes the western trail to Juphal.

It’s still another 2½–3 hours to Juphal through fields of barley and wheat, with walnut, peach and apricot trees. The final climb to our night’s camp is steep. With a small bazaar, it’s a pleasant place in which to spend our final night in the region.

Day 14 Fly Juphal-Nepalgunj-Kathmandu
An early morning flight to Nepalgunj to await the connecting return flight to Kathmandu.
Trek ends.