EVEREST TREK IN CLOSE UP -

An early morning stunning flight to the gateway to the region of the legendary Sherpas. Start trekking north towards Phakding - meandering trails lined with stone walls.

Following the torrent of the Dudh Koshi, the trail climbs north through forests of rhododendron, magnolia and giant firs, to the village of Jorsalle for lunch, before ascending to Namche Bazaar, the largest village often called the ‘Sherpa Capital' of Khumbu.

Today is for acclimatisation to the high altitude; adjust by exploring the local markets, mingle with the people, walk up to the Everest view point, breathing deeply and happily lazing around in sunshine.

The beginning of the trail is almost level-stretched and abruptly the passage ascends on a staircase made up of rocks embedded in a narrow cleft in a large boulder and continues towards a large chorten (a smaller version of Stupa) on the top of the ridge which is in Mong La, the birth place of the saint Lama Sange Dorje, the reincarnate lama of Rongbuk monastery in Tibet who introduced Buddhism to Khumbu.

From Mong La, the trail descends in steep switchbacks down a sandy slope to the Dudh Koshi river for a short period and then climbs steeply out of the valley through rhododendron forests, which give way to fragrant stands of juniper and large conifers as the elevation increases. The trail passes a herder’s hut at Tongba, then ascends smoothly to Dole with few lodges and predominant views of Khumbila, the abode of the patron god of the Khumbu region, and Tawache. From here on it‘s possible to climb a ridge behind Dole for a broader view up and down the valley.

This day the route is steep in a few places as it climbs through scrub junipers and along the way, Kharkas (grazing field for yaks) are seen wherever there is a flat spot and the slightest hint of water.

The trail carries on to climb along the side of the valley, high above the river, traversing sandy spurs to Machhermo, where ‘a yeti has killed three yaks and had attacked a Sherpa girl’, the most credible yeti incident ever reported in Khumbu, so be on guard as you visit this region!

Away from Macchermo the trail ascends a ridge for an excellent view both down the valley to Kantega and up towards Cho Oyu. Beyond the ridge, the valley widens as the trail reaches Pangka and leaving this place behind we drop briefly, then again climb to a large cave area known as Nilibuk. As we pass Nilibuk the trail climbs steeply again along a narrowly crafted staircase trail and down below, the clear water from the Gokyo lakes merging with the glacial outflow from the massive Ngozumpa Glacier is seen. Atop the staircase, the trail crosses a simple wooden bridge to the first small lake, where a family of Brahminy ducks has dwelled for many years. We head on past a second lake known as Taujun, and finally up a boulder strewn path to Gokyo, a collection of stone houses.

In Gokyo, we again take a day to acclimatise. After an early morning breakfast, hike up to Gokyo-Ri (5,357m,/2 hrs approx.), the small peak above the lake. The place offers an astonishing panoramic view of Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang, Everest, Lhotse, Kakalu, Cholatse and Tawachee. This small peak is sometimes called Kala Patthar (which is entirely different from Kala Patthar above Gorakshep).

The route we trek today is a challenging side trip across Cho La to the Khumbu valley in the Everest region. Just about halfway between the first and second lakes, a trail leads across the moraine to the east, past the steep pass. This involves a glacier crossing on the eastern side before finally reaching Thangna, a small hamlet of houses where we make a night stop and prepare ourselves for crossing Cho La tomorrow.

We wake earlier than usual to prepare for the challenging trek across Cho La. We pack our lunch for the day as houses and lodges are almost non-existent on the route. Besides the moraine trail we may come across ice falls, if there’s been enough snowfall in the region. The trail, which comprised of moraine and rock towards Cho La (5,340) is steep and often snow-covered in the upper part. The descent from the pass to Dzongla is quite straightforward.

Leaving Dzongla, the trail continues to descend. Passing frozen rivers, we reach Lobuche where stone houses sit in an icy wilderness of stunning beauty. Once in Lobuche, we get a sense of being close to the ultimate goal.