ARUN VALLEY NORTH TO SAGARMATHA

Flying east from Kathmandu, we take our first glimpse from the air of the mountains as we head to Tumlingtar, night 1 of our trek. This small community lies on the green plains of Tumlingtar and has a distinct Indian feel as it lies a mere 70kms from the border. Feeling like we have stepped back in time, we land on the grass covered runway and pass through this peaceful trading post as we set off across the plains and warm up with a gentle uphill hike through rice paddies and mango groves past pretty settlements with elevated split bamboo houses draped with bougainvillea and honeysuckle shrubs. Crossing the Arun River on a long and low suspension bridge, we arrive at the little village of Katikeghat (950m) situated on the banks of the Arun river.

The day begins with a strenuous uphill hike away from the Arun towards Chalise, where we will break for lunch. After the meal, we will start the gradual climb to Gothe Bazaar where we will camp for the night. In the village, we can sample the local Chhang, a beer made from rice.

Crossing the Irkhu River via a rickety but safe bamboo bridge, we head up to Dhobane-Danphe where the villagers specialise in Nepalese hand made papermaking. After lunch, we will continue on our way to Phedi where we will camp for the night (Tea-House available). Until now, we have been trekking through low altitude fertile river valley and experiencing varied local cultures of this area. However the next day we move up into the middle hills.

We ascend to Jaubari, and after a hard climb, we can stop to enjoy a revitalizing cup of local Nepali Sherpa tea (salt, flour, boiled water and butter mixed with tea). Advancing through the rhododendron forest, we stop to enjoy our packed lunch and a well-deserved rest, before heading up to Guranse, our campsite. (Optional hike to mountain pass, 40 mins.)

A 40-minute hike through the forest takes us to the Salpa pass, from where we descend the mountain ridge - at 3,349m. (If there is enough snow, we won’t need skis to slide down the slippery slopes!) Back in the rhododendron forest, we’ll continue onto the Sherpa village of Sonam (this is our second shopping centre for fresh vegetables), where we will stop for lunch. There is a choice of camping sites, either at Tiuwa (1 hour) or at Guidel (3 hours) further on.

Heading steeply downhill through jungle and villages along the ridge and past the Hinku (‘Hunga’- local name) River, we will pause for lunch at Bung before carrying on towards camp at Khirangle, on the edge of the jungle.

Heading into the jungle, we trek uphill to visit a Buddhist monastery before stopping for lunch. Later, we climb towards a second pass, Surky La (3,084m) where we should get to enjoy spectacular views of Mt Numbur. From here, we descend to the Sherpa Summer camp of Najing. Once there, we can try the local delicacies – dry meat, Sherpa tea, Yak yoghurt

Today’s trek will take us along a downhill trail across the Inkhu river, which, in turn, leads to a steep ascent…a real endurance test! We stop for lunch at Gaikharka (where it’s possible to buy chocolate bars); afterwards we approach the third pass, Pangum (3,137m), before reaching Pangum village.

We gradually trek downhill to our lunch spot at the Makalu Hotel (a local teashop). Afterwards we continue towards the ridge before the steep downhill path merges with the Jiri trail, and all the other trekkers! (Note: there is another lower and gentler route, but if weather permits, we should have beautiful mountain views from our high route.) At Puyan, we can relax and enjoy a drink or two and take shower (a welcome relief).

This morning we share the trail with villagers, porters, trekkers, mules and of course yaks as we make our way towards the edge of the Lukla plateau and then down to the valley floor. We continue back down into the Dudh Kosi valley until we reach our camp at Phakding. Teahouse here will provide us with cokes, beers and videos!

Following the Dudh Kosi, we gently climb through fields and rhododendron forest to reach Jorsalle, where we stop for lunch. After our meal, we visit Sagarmatha National Park, before heading on to Namche Bazaar. This bustling village offers such luxuries as a bank, hot showers and, surprise, surprise: shopping! Tonight we bid adieu to the porters – who’ll be replaced by yaks from here on.

We spend the day in Namche Bazaar in order to acclimatise to the altitude. The day can be spent exploring the Sherpa culture and mingling with the locals. Weather permitting, our first view of Everest, Thamsherku, Kangtega, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam is a distinct possibility. After packing our lunch, we can visit the Khunde Hospital, the Sir Edmund Hillary School, or Everest View Hotel – the world’s highest hotel. Here at Namche, it’s possible to arrange any extra supplies needed for the ascent to Base Camp.

Today we travel towards Tengboche, stopping in Phunki Tanga for lunch, where we will find water mills and prayer wheels. Once at Tengboche it’s possible to visit the local monastery and the Sherpa Heritage Foundation, or to hike up to see close-up views of the Thamsherku. From this day onwards, smoking and drinking alcohol are strongly discouraged to minimize the chances of altitude sickness.

Continue to follow Dudh Kosi along a moderate uphill trail. Lunch will be at Sombare, and then we carry on our trek to our camp at Dingboche (teahouse optional). Here, we can enjoy a hot shower…and very cold air!