The High Road from Lhasa with The Backdoor to Everest

Fly Kathmandu to Lhasa - Depart on an early morning. Arrive at Lhasa Airport (3,700m) after a one hour fifteen minute flight, probably the most dramatic International flight anywhere, flying over Everest, Kanchenjunga, Makalu and the southern Tibetan Plateau. Entry formalities then a one hour 30 minute drive to Lhasa.

Especially during the first few days at this altitude it pays to moderate activity and take short breaks. And after the first of these, we'll explore Lhasa's Old Quarter.

We'll find the interesting pilgrimage kora (circuit) of Barkhor and watch as pilgrims perform their ritual prostration. Here too is a classic Tibetan market; hundreds of merchants, traders and craftsmen, all with something to sell to Lhasa’s inhabitants, to innumerable pilgrims and to the likes of you and me.

If you’ve pictured Tibet at all, chances are you‘ve pictured the Potala Palace, the most potent symbol for the Tibetan Community worldwide. It's a treasure trove of traditional culture, an architectural marvel and it’s World Heritage-listed site. Stroll through its 13 storeys, housing 1,000 rooms.

In the late afternoon, we'll visit the Jorkhang Temple, the spiritual heart of Tibetan beliefs. It literally hums with pilgrims murmuring chants and spinning prayer wheels amidst the myriad flickering of yak butter lamps. We'll also attend the evening prayer recital in the temple. Later, take the opportunity for an insight into the world of ancient Tibetan holistic healing at the Metzekhang medicine centre. (B)

- In the morning, travel 5 km north to one of the great monasteries of the Gelugpa, yellow hat, order. Founded in 1419, Sera Monastery became famous for its Tantric teachings. At Sera, the monks perform a clapping ritual which is good-natured, boisterous fun, and visitors can also partake. Also just outside Lhasa stands Drepung, once the largest of all monasteries. Within the periphery lies the Ganden Palace, home to the Dalai Lamas from the time it was founded by the 2nd Dalai Lama until the 5th built the Potala. The Dalai Lama's erstwhile Summer Palace, Norbulingka, is a shady retreat a short distance from town and a pleasant place to spend an afternoon. (B)

Drive 40 kms northeast of Lhasa to Ganden Monastery (4,500 m). Perched at the rim of the Kyi-chu Valley, Ganden commands a dramatic view up and down the Lhasa River. Attend the daily ritual of worship in the monastery before taking a low ‘kora’ walk (1 hr), and perhaps making a respectful visit to a surreal sky burial site.
Later, set out for the cave-dotted cliff-top of Drak Yerpa, the inspired citadel of Tibetan Buddhism. The most important feature here is the holy cave, which has long served as a meditation retreat for sages and ascetics; most noteworthy have been Guru Rinpoche and King Songsten Gampo. We now drive to Drigung (4,150m) perched dramatically on an elevated ridge over the river. Overnight camping. (B, D)

A walk away from Drigung leads to a holy sky burial site, then follows a three hour trek north-west to Tidrum, effort being aptly rewarded with a dip in therapeutic hot springs, ideally located at the confluence of two streams. It is then an afternoon drive to reach Nam-tso. Behold the grandeur of Nam-tso Lake and exquisite views of the Nyenchen Tanglha range, with peaks of 7,000m plus, dominating the lake to the south. Overnight Camping. (B,L,D)

Take in the serenity and beauty of Nam-tso Lake with a walk around the area. Head now to Tashi Dor Monastery, further east. The monastery is famed as home to an icon of the local deity, Nyenchen Tangla. Another highlight of the Nam-tso precinct is the opportunity to witness the nomadic lifestyle of the Drokpa people of the Changtang Plateau. (B,L)

Drive to Samye, crossing the broad Yarlung-Tsangpo River (known to us as the holy Bramahputra), en route, in a ferry to explore Tibet's first monastery, Samye Monastery. Built in 8th century, the temple compound is modeled to resemble the Buddhist conception of the universe and all the temples in the courtyard are cosmological symbols. Later in the day, youncan explore the vicinity or partake in a ritualistic ‘kora’ circumambulation around the village. Overnight Guesthouse. (B)

This morning, we’ve one more opportunity to enjoy the ferry crossing which gets us back to our vehicle for our day’s road journey. The route to Gyantse (3,950m) crosses the Kampa-La(4,794m), from where you can get the first glimpse of the stunning beauty of Yamdrok-tso (Turquoise) lake, one of the four holy lakes of Tibet, and Karo-La (5,010m). Visit the massive fortress, Kumbum, and Pelkor Chode Monastery at Gyantse. The monastery has a particular influence, for here there is rare unity of Gelugpa, Sakyapa and Bhuton, the three sects of Tibetan Buddhism. The center-piece of Phalkhor and the pride of the city, is Kumbum, the largest stupa in Tibet. It is a fine example of 15th century Newari art which speaks of strong Himalayan ties with Nepal.

After a further 1.5 hrs driving, we'll reach Shigatse (3,900m), the town in Tibet 2nd only to Lhasa. (B)

The foremost attraction, Tashilhunpo Monastery, has three main buildings that are worth exploring at length. These include the Chapel of Maitreya, which is home to an 85 foot tall Buddha coated in 275 kgs of gold, and the Palace of the Panchen Lama. For photogenic views of the monastery (or for those wanting to earn some karma), do a kora of Tashilhunpo, but bemindful of your pilgrimage being in a clockwise direction, as the world turns, so as to not offend the Buddhist ethos. An option today is to drive 19 km south of Shigatse to the 11th century Shalu Monastery. Of particular interest are the 14th century murals in the monastery, clearly influenced and eagerly inspired by Chinese, Mongol and Newari genres. (B)

Our next goal is the monastic town of Sakya (4,280 m), reached after crossing two passes; the Tropu La (4,950 m) and the Lhakpa La (5,200 m). Clearly now The Himalaya stand ahead of us on the horizon of the plateau, like icebergs in a sea of sand. The highlights of Sakya are its two monasteries, located on either side of the Trum-chu River. Sakya, which takes its name directly from the Buddha’s original Indian name, rather oddly suffered little from the familiar dismemberment of Tibetan Culture and intrusive influence of the modern Chinese state. (Perhaps the dollar-signs of tourism saved it!)
However, perhaps somewhere named ‘Sakya’ may not be such a bad place to consider, in the interest of balance, that modern changes do include tremendous improvements in medical facilities, infrastructure – not least communications, roads and the new railway - and also in profane education. (B)

Leaving Sakya, let’s take the road turning off the Friendship Highway and head west for Xegar. Driving through photogenic villages with Himalayan vistas, we reach Rongphu (aka Rongbuk )after about 3 hrs.
Surely one absolute highlight of a journey in Tibet is sight of the world's tallest mountain. Locally known as Qomolangma, Everest soars above the Rongphu Monastery (4,980m); highest monastery in the world. Rest of the day is at leisure. (B)

In the morning, a two hour hike up to Everest Base Camp provides an unobstructed view of the peak; and from Camp the enormity of the mountain is utterly overwhelming.
Although Base Camp itself is nothing more than a small, rocky, glacial basin the view of the mountain’s enormity is stunning. During peak climbing months, Base Camp is a village of tents and climbers, but out of season there is only ghostly emptiness; for it is from here that the epic that is the story of Everest begins – with the Mallory/Irvine fateful expedition as long ago as June 1924.
After hiking back down from Base Camp to the road, prepare to travel back to Old Tingri (4,390m). (B)

Next day, through the dust that coats Tingri, the breathtaking sight to the South is the vast, white obstruction consisting of famous North Faces; the north faces of Everest, Cho-Oyu, Lhotse and Makalu. Here too there are numerous ruined reminders of an18th century Nepalese invasion, including the fort of Tingri Dzong, which also played reluctant host to the British Younghusband military incursion of 1906.
The journey has saved one of the very best bits until last, for now comes one of Nature’s most dramatic transformations. On account of the rapid descent from frozen plateau to sub-tropical climes, everything changes; from scrub to forest canopies, from predominant browns to lush greens. From parched plain to cascading waters. This is especially so in the monsoon and post-monsoon period (July-November).

After Chinese Immigration and Customs in Zhangmu (2,300 m) is the short walk downhill to the ‘Friendship Bridge’, the border between China and Nepal.

After Nepalese Immigration and Customs the road winds through gloriously colourful pastoral scenes before climbing to Dhulikhel. Here we can look back north to see the serrated skyline of The Himalaya from their southern side. Kathmandu is just a two-hour drive away. End of Expedition. (B)
MEAL CODES: (B=breakfast, L=Lunch, D=Dinner)