However, perhaps somewhere named ‘Sakya’ may not be such a bad place to consider, in the interest of balance, that modern changes do include tremendous improvements in medical facilities, infrastructure – not least communications, roads and the new railway - and also in profane education. (B)

Day 10: To Rongphu
Leaving Sakya, let’s take the road turning off the Friendship Highway and head west for Xegar.  Driving through photogenic villages with Himalayan vistas, we reach Rongphu (aka Rongbuk )after about 3 hrs. 

Surely one absolute highlight of a journey in Tibet is sight of the world's tallest mountain.  Locally known as Qomolangma, Everest soars above the Rongphu Monastery (4,980m); highest monastery in the world.  Rest of the day is at leisure.  (B)

Day 11: To Everest Base Camp & Old Tingri
In the morning, a two hour hike up to Everest Base Camp provides an unobstructed view of the peak; and from Camp the enormity of the mountain is utterly overwhelming.

Although Base Camp itself is nothing more than a small, rocky, glacial basin the view of the mountain’s enormity is stunning. During peak climbing months, Base Camp is a village of tents and climbers, but out of season there is only ghostly emptiness;  for it is from here that the epic that is the story of Everest begins – with the Mallory/Irvine fateful expedition as long ago as June 1924.

After hiking back down from Base Camp to the road, prepare to travel back to Old Tingri (4,390m).   (B)

Day 12: To Zhangmu Border and Kathmandu
Next day, through the dust that coats Tingri, the breathtaking sight to the South is the vast, white

obstruction consisting of famous North Faces; the north faces of Everest, Cho-Oyu, Lhotse and Makalu.  Here too there are numerous ruined reminders of an18th century Nepalese invasion, including the fort of Tingri Dzong, which also played reluctant host to the British Younghusband military incursion of 1906.

The journey has saved one of the very best bits until last, for now comes one of Nature’s most dramatic transformations.  On account of the rapid descent from frozen plateau to sub-tropical climes, everything changes; from scrub to forest canopies, from predominant browns to lush greens.  From parched plain to cascading waters.  This is especially so in the monsoon and post-monsoon period (July-November). 

After Chinese Immigration and Customsin Zhangmu (2,300 m) is the short walk downhill to the ‘Friendship Bridge’, the border between China and Nepal.

After Nepalese Immigration and Customs the road winds through gloriously colourful pastoral scenes before climbing to Dhulikhel. Here we can look back north to see the serrated skyline of The Himalaya from their southern side. Kathmandu is just  a two-hour drive away. End of Expedition.  (B)

MEAL CODES:  (B=breakfast, L=Lunch, D=Dinner)